Aquarium designs are very diverse. A regular rectangular frame aquarium is still relevant because it is easier to maintain than a round one. In addition, it is much more durable than an aquarium without a metal frame.
It is necessary
- Roofing iron - strips 10 cm wide, 1.5 mm thick
- Window or showcase glass with a thickness of 4, 3 mm
- Oil paint
- Epoxy resin
- Hardener
- Epoxy Solvent
- Sifted construction cement
- Plasticizer (dibutyl phthalate)
- Glass cutter
- Rubber gloves
- Protective glasses
- Soldering iron 150-200W
- Solder
- Soldering acid
- Knife
- Metal scissors
- Mallet
- File
- Sandpaper
- Locksmith work table with vice
Instructions
Step 1
For an aquarium with a bottom size of 25x30 cm and a height of 40 cm, cut 4 metal strips 25 cm long, 4 - 30 cm each, 4 - 40 cm each. Bend the strips lengthwise to form a corner.
Step 2
From strips of 25 and 30 cm, solder the ends of the frame. Connect them together in strips of 40 cm. Using a file and sandpaper, clean the seams.
Step 3
Cut out the bottom, side and end walls from glass. Their size should be 20 mm smaller than the outer edges of the aquarium. Glasses should not rest against the frame and each other. Otherwise, they may burst. Wipe down the glass and frame with degreasing solvent.
Step 4
Prepare the putty in a clean, wide container. Fill in the sifted cement. To put in one glass, you need 2 glasses of cement. Make a hole in the cement and start pouring epoxy into it. Stir and knead the resulting mass with your hands until the consistency of a thick dough. Add the amount of plasticizer equal to the amount of hardener (depending on resin consumption). Stir the mixture thoroughly again. If it is not fluid enough, you can add a solvent. Finally add the hardener and stir again.
Step 5
Turn the aquarium on its side so that the side you are currently working on is on a flat surface. Roll long rollers out of the putty and place them on the frame around the perimeter of the glass. Align the rollers. Place the degreased glass on top and press it firmly against the frame, taking into account that in the future the glasses should not touch each other. This will squeeze out excess putty from the edges of the glass. Remove it with a knife without turning the frame over. Place a weight on the glass and leave for about 12 hours. After 12 hours, place the aquarium upright and use a knife to cut off the excess putty from the outside. Thus, glue in all the other glasses. First, the side windows are glued in, then the end windows, and last of all - the bottom. After that, from the inside of the frame, insulate the inside of the shelf, that is, the upper metal part of the frame, with putty. Complete hardening of the putty occurs within 48 hours.
Step 6
Clean the inside and outside of the aquarium with solvent. Fill the aquarium to the top with water. Usually, aquariums made with this technology are quite rigid and do not leak. If a leak is found, isolate it with the same compound, after drying the aquarium. Drain and paint the aquarium frame with light oil paint. Don't forget to paint the top shelf of the aquarium as well.
Step 7
Fill the tank with water again for two days. This is necessary in order to remove harmful soluble substances contained in the putty from the seams. After two days, drain the water and wash the tank with baking soda. Rinse it thoroughly, then fill it with water and plant the plants. Before settling the fish, it is advisable that the aquarium stand with the plants for a week or two.
